The Rudiments of Alpine

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-11-28 07:34:34

Alpine Tip 42: How to (and how not to) climb at High Altitudes.

1. Before an important high-altitude trip, make some acclimatization hikes in California's High Sierra or Colorado, for example hike the Mt. Whitney trail a few times. If you can't make it to Mt. Whitney, then you probably should seriously reconsider your trip altogether.

2. The sure way to fail any alpine summit is to walk fast. If it is a guided trip, be aware that some dishonest (usually underpaid) commercial "guides" use this fact to work less: to make the clients give up before they even reach the base camp - by setting up or encouraging rather quick pace. Neat trick - the clients never realize they were intentionally burnt for they usually blame their own "bad" fitness.

3. Learn and practice the technique of alpine walk - it is there for a good reason.

4. Avoid taking high altitude medication such as Diamox. If you do, be prepared for side effects: ".. fatigue, drowsiness, depression, decreased libido, bitter or metallic taste, nausea, vomiting, abdominal cramps, diarrhea, black feces, polyuria, kidney stones, metabolic acidosis and electrolyte changes (hypokalemia, hyponatremia)...".

5. At the last base camp just before the summit bid, walk 1/3 up of the route and come back down. Have a good sleep.

6. Drink a lot of liquid.

7. On the summit day, avoid super "early start" - if you begin at or before the midnight you most likely will be at the summit later than earlier or won't make it at all. This is obvious - who will be in top shape without a sleep? Such early starts are typical with commercial guides - this is the trend all over the climbing industry. If you think the summit is too far and you can't make it in a day time, you should probably move the base camp a bit closer (or go home).

8. Bad morale kills motivation which you surely will need. If it is not a guided trip, climb only with good proven climbing partners: with those who will never leave you behind. This has to be reciprocal - you never leave your climbing partner behind - even when the summit is only 50 m away.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-12-1 10:20:11

Alpine Tip 43: How to avoid to become a statistics of Avalanche Fatalities.

Accept this fact: any snow slope which is not flat has a potential for avalanche, it is just a matter of tricky balance between snow binding forces and the gravitation. Once buried, without extra help it could be impossible to get out - even half body below the snow surface can get you badly stuck. A friend of mine whom I used to hike with a few times, was on a regular trail with his wife when he got caught in a very small snow slide. His wife didn't see him slide and after looking around for a few minutes, she went back to the trailhead thinking he was ahead of her. Although the slide was very small, he was found deceased next day, head down, under only 50 cm of snow.

Here are basic levels of snow avalanche awareness:

Basic
Before you leave for that exciting snow trip, PLEASE ALWAYS READ avalanche forecast. DO NOT rely on anybody else to make decisions for you - read it yourself! Stay away when the forecast danger level of your trip is or above moderate.

Moderate
Learn how to evaluate snow terrain's avalanche danger. DO NOT watch YouTube - take instructions from people with good experience and reputation.

Advanced
Learn about basic travel in Avalanche Terrain and Avalanche Rescue Response. DO NOT watch YouTube.

Expert
Purchase and always carry dedicated avalanche equipment such as Avalanche Transceiver, Snow Shovel, Snow Angle Meter, Digitial Snow Thermometer and Avalanche Probe. Learn how to use them and practice! practice! practice! DO NOT watch YouTube.

BE SAFE! 8)

PHOTO: Avalanche Rescue Response practice. The location time must be faster than five minutes, or the buried avalanche victim will suffer brain damage from the lack of oxygen.

LINKS:
Avalanche Canada: http://www.avalanche.ca/
The Rudiments of Alpine: https://www.crossna.org/forum.php?mod=redirect&ptid=22786

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-12-17 10:26:33

Alpine Vocabulary

雪套 (gaiters)

雪套，中国大陆地区又多称脚套。可能是旅行爱好者多用其来走雪地的缘故，所以大多数的旅行爱好者则称之为雪套，。“雪套”一词和这种户外装备已经为登山和远足的人们所广泛使用和钟爱。就如同西服一样，它是舶来品。它的英文名是Gaiters。

http://baike.baidu.com/

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-12-24 12:47:44

THE HIKER'S DREAM LIST 2017 * TOP 10

If you are an ardent hiker residing in BC and in process of making a personal (and challenging!) outdoors plan for the new year 2017 here is the list of our favorite destinations, which two of us think should be visited every year (or at least once in a lifetime! - life is too short after-all).

Each destination is great in these respects:
1. Provides great (postcard) views.
2. Access to the trailhead requires only a regular passenger vehicle on a well maintained road. Can be reached from Vancouver BC in 1-2 days driving.
3. Is a great workout.
4. Requires a reliable partner to hike with (not to be done alone).

HIKING DESTINATIONS * TOP 10
1. Crater Lake, OR
Snowshoe lake circumvention - 2 nights winter backpacking.

2. Grand Canyon, AZ
Rim to Rim and back
Winter backpacking - 4 nights.

3. Mount Shasta, CA
Avalanche Gulch route - winter climb - 1 day

4. Mount Whitney, CA
Tourist route - 2 nights summer backpacking

5. Lake Magog - Mount Assiniboine Prov. Park, Canadian Rockies.
3 nights winter backpacking

6. Half Dome - Yosemite - CA
1 day in summer via cable route.

7. Moraine Lake - Banff National Park, AB
Summer day hikes around Moraine Lake / Lake Louise

8. Waterton Lakes National Park, AB
Summer day hikes.

9. Zabriskie Point, Death Valley NP, AZ
Golden Canyon trail - day hike, winter only.

10. Jasper National Park, AB
Summer day hikes

MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR 2017 TO ALL! 8)

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-12-25 11:00:36

BASIC ALPINE - DREAM LIST 2017

If you are an aspiring alpine climber residing in BC and in process of compiling a personal mountaineering wish list for the new year 2017, below is the list of our favorite peaks:

Each peak is great in these respects:

1. Is a "pure" alpine peak - there are no tourist trails leading to the top. Requires basic training ( e.g. our "Alpine 101" course that we teach )

2. Is a well-known popular low-angle classic alpine route. It is listed in one of the available published guide books.

3. The route is used by commercial guides to bring clients.

4. Access to the trailhead requires only a regular passenger vehicle on a well maintained road. Can be reached from Vancouver BC in 1-2 days driving.

1. Mount Matier (2,783 m, BC) - NE Spur

2. Mount Baker (3,286 m, WA) - Coleman-Deming

3. Mount Athabasca (3,491 m, AB) - North Glacier

4. Mount Russel (4,296 m, CA) - East Ridge

5. Mount Rainier (4,392 m, WA) - Ingraham Direct

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-12-26 20:33:53

Learning from mistakes

2016.12.26
2 men missing after snowshoeing on Christmas Day * NSR activated for two missing skiers Cypress Mountain area

Over 20 rescue members search Cypress Mountain for missing hikers..Police were contacted late Sunday evening when an abandoned vehicle was found by staff in a parking area after Cypress Mountain closed for the night.

Investigators have been unable to contact the registered owner of the vehicle, 43-year-old Roy Tin Hou Lee of Vancouver.

Efforts to locate or contact either man have been unsuccessful so far.

North Shore Rescue is assisting with the investigation.

"The weather is obviously getting worse," said search manager Simon Jackson. "Right now without further navigation we don't have anything to narrow our search down."
Temperatures were expected to drop to -11 overnight, and more snow was predicted.

Prevention:

1. EIGHT SAFETY HABITS OF A PERFECT HIKER (#1 and #4) http://goo.gl/8vNxmW

2. Invest in a PLB and carry it all the time.

"One of the key things here is leaving a trip plan and a device to be able to contact us with a cell phone, or if you're out of range a cell phone and a satellite beacon for communication, because they don't have any of those things," Jackson said.

more here

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-12-27 03:21:49

Learning from mistakes

2016.12.27 - update

North Shore Rescue to renew search for missing party on Tuesday morning

North Shore Rescue will reassess search efforts for two missing people on Tuesday morning, after a day of steadily worsening conditions on the local mountains.

However, there's still no idea where the two might be — and with the avalanche risk increasing, Danks is worried

"They left no trip plan whatsoever. We're not sure if they're on Hollyburn, Black or Strachan mountain," he said.

"It' very frightening, because they are not well-equipped for these conditions at all. By now, we're looking at 36 hours they've been out. It's not a good situation."

more here

Prevention:
EIGHT SAFETY HABITS OF A PERFECT HIKER (#1) http://goo.gl/8vNxmW

棉花糖 · 发表于 2016-12-27 08:25:05

又是一个没有 well equiped !

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-12-28 22:35:47

Learning from mistakes

2016.12.28 Update

Search for B.C. hikers temporarily suspended

Weather and avalanche concerns hampered efforts all day. North Shore Rescue (NSR) spokesman Mike Danks said crews were scheduled to leave their Capilano Gate base at 8 a.m. PT., but heavy clouds delayed use of the Talon helicopter.

Danks earlier called Wednesday "a make-or-break day for these guys."

http://www.cbc.ca/

Tomorrow's avalanche conditions:

Heavy snowfall on Thursday with strong winds and mild temperatures is expected to form widespread storm slabs and drive the danger to HIGH. Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended.

Very dangerous avalanche conditions. Travel in avalanche terrain not recommended.

Natural avalanches likely; human-triggered avalanches very likely.

Large avalanches in many areas; or very large avalanches in specific areas.

http://www.avalanche.ca/forecasts/south-coast

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-12-29 10:51:24

2016.12.29 Update

Dangerous conditions prevent resumption of search for missing B.C. snowshoers.

..Rescue teams on Vancouver's North Shore are on standby, hoping a break in the weather and a reduced avalanche risk will allow them to resume a search for two snowshoers..

...rescuers are watching the weather closely but with the high avalanche risk in the alpine and through the treeline, it remains unsafe to enter the search area.

metronews.ca

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-12-29 17:54:50

2016.12.28 Update..

North Shore Rescue * Cypress Snowshoers Search: Day 3.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-12-29 19:34:51

2016.12.29 Update

Search for missing hikers remains on hold due to bad weather.

"We've had heavy snowfall as well as high winds and that, with the mild temperatures, has driven the avalanche danger up to high," said North Shore Rescue spokesman Mike Danks. "It is just not safe for our members."

http://www.cbc.ca/

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-12-30 17:21:09

Learning from mistakes

2016.12.30 Update

Search for missing snowshoers called off

The search for 43-year-old Roy Lee and 64-year-old Chun Lam has been called off.

The pair had gone for a snowshoe hike on Christmas Day in the Strachan Meadows area of Cypress Mountain and had not been seen since.

West Vancouver says missing person file remains open for the pair but the search will not resume unless new information arises.

North Shore Rescue and West Vancouver Police made the decision to turn a rescue mission into a recovery effort this afternoon.

http://www.cknw.com/

This adds to the sad statistics of major accidents of 2016 on Cypress:
2016.01 Cypress Mountain - Missing snowboarder - FATAL
2016.09 Cypress Mountain - Missing hiker - FATAL

More: NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS

Prevention

you absolutely have to be prepared and you need to let someone know where you’re going

http://globalnews.ca/

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-1-4 11:20:03

Alpine Tip #45 How to build your alpine climbing equipment set

Do not buy a bunch of stuff in one go. Buy piece by piece. You need to know what you are looking for.

Climbing equipment is very expensive. If you just begin training, avoid buying it (unless you have deep pockets). Use the gear that is provided by your course. Or borrow it, for example from a good friend, or from a fellow club member. There is certain etiquette though: you can't ask to lend you a climbing rope: you will embarrass both yourself and your friend.

Some basic gear you can also rent. For example, from MEC: https://www.mec.ca/en/stores/vancouver

Next choice would be to buy second hand. Once you progress through your training (with mostly borrowed gear), you will know what exactly you should be looking for. Alpine gear is meant to be durable (especially made from metal), so it would be very safe to buy it used. 50% off the mark price is usual. Again, there are exceptions: never buy a used climbing rope. Good places to look for second-hand gear are gear swaps, such MEC's https://www.mec.ca/en/gearswap/

The last choice is purchasing new equipment. For example, a climbing rope has to be purchased only new and only by you. Do it after your first season of climbing, when you know that you are not going to quit for quite a while (or you will become the one who is selling). Good place to go is https://www.mec.ca/en/.

PHOTO: Base alpine climbing set. Most of the metal equipment was purchased second-hand at half price.

MORE: The Rudiments Of Alpine

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-1-5 05:27:04

Alpine Tip #48 Main external features of a good alpine backpack

A good alpine backpack should have these important external features:

1. Gear loops
2. Side straps
3. Placements for two ice axes: one straight and one technical
4. Crampons pouch
5. Side pocket to house 2 snow pickets

NOTE: the alpine industry still has to come with ideal solution. An alpine backpack that has all five features above is hard to come across.

MORE: The Rudiments Of Alpine

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-1-7 09:36:37

Alpine Tip #49 What exactly is "alpine style"?

To understand what the "alpine style" is about, watch the film Touching the Void.

It shows pretty much all the elements of modern alpinism:

Climbing steep snow and ice.
Alpine belay and rappel.
Glacier travel.
Mountain hazards: glaciers, avalanches, bad weather, cornices, etc.
Mountain Rescue.

Current YouTube link:
(most likely will be soon removed due to copyright)

MORE: The Rudiments Of Alpine

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-1-17 06:22:16

Carabiners

Use: to quickly and reversibly connect components, most notably in safety-critical systems.

Reference
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carabiner
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-1-18 05:54:43

Rock Climbing: Lead Fall

Shows you how to manage the rope, communicate with your belayer and come off the wall in the right way.

Reference
1. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory
2. The Rudiments of Alpine. Video play list

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-1-22 20:56:20

Good idea, .. use your axe! 8)

..watch this for great tips on HOW NOT TO

https://youtu.be/uxtg7raPDYo?t=5m12s

Reference
1. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory
2. The Rudiments of Alpine. Video play list

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-2-6 06:39:31

Munter Mule

Demonstrates how to tie the Munter Mule. (多谢Vera发现的）

Reference
1. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory
2. The Rudiments of Alpine. Video play list

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The Rudiments of Alpine

Alpine Tip #48

Alpine Tip #49